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Pecan and Chocolate Biscotti with Bourbon-Soaked Cherries

May 18, 2012

melting pot adventures in food

When I set out to make this biscotti, my intentions were very clear.  The morning was dreary and cold, the outlook for the afternoon even drearier and colder.  In the interest of providing myself with something to cut through the depressing gray day ahead of me,  I was aiming to whip up bit of a treat that I could enjoy with a soothing cup of afternoon coffee.

It seemed like such an innocent endeavor, and it was, really, until I opened up a cupboard to rifle around for a bit of inspiration concerning what I could fold into the biscotti dough and, oh, hello, dried Montmorency cherries.  And who is that sitting right next to you?  A bottle of Kentucky bourbon, I see.  We may be onto something here.  A bit more shuffling of things in said cupboard also unearthed the last bits of a bar of bittersweet chocolate, a natural pairing, I thought, for the tartness of the cherries.  A bit of chopping, and we’re almost there.

And where was there?  Well, surprisingly, it ended up being a place where crisp, satisfying biscotti, ripe with bourbon-plumped cherries and streaks of dark chocolate, tastes a lot like the best chocolate chip cookie I’ve ever eaten.  While still firmly planted in the crunchy family of biscotti, this little number has the brown sugar notes of a cookie, but with a hint more sophistication on account of the chunky pecans and varying hits of tartness, sweetness, and, of course, smooth bourbon.  It may not have been the exact treat I thought I’d end up making, but it served its purpose more than sufficiently.  Dipped into a cup of hot black coffee, it was a warm and cozy highlight to what can only be called a cold and punishing day (ah, springtime in Portland).

Pecan and Chocolate Biscotti with Bourbon-Soaked Cherries

3 tablespoons bourbon
½ cup dried sour cherries (you may have to hunt around to find dried sour cherries instead of dried regular cherries, but the difference between the two is so totally worth the hunt)
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons (½ a stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
¼ cup white sugar
¼ cup dark brown sugar
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
½ cup coarsely chopped, lightly toasted pecans
½ cup coarsely chopped bittersweet chocolate

In a small bowl, combine the bourbon and the dried sour cherries.  Allow to soak at room temperature for at least 1 hour (if you have the inclination, soaking them overnight would provide the most forward bourbon flavor), tossing occasionally to keep all the cherries in touch with the bourbon.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.  Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.

Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt.  Set aside.

In a large bowl, cream together the butter and sugars until they are light and fluffy.  Beat in the eggs and vanilla.  Beat the sifted dry ingredients into the butter mixture until everything is just combined.  Stir in the pecans, chocolate, and dried cherries, along with any bourbon leftover in the bowl.  Stir until everything is incorporated.

Directly on the prepared baking sheet, divide the dough into 2 logs roughly 3 ½ inches wide and 8 inches long.  Pat the logs into a uniform thickness of about ¾ inch.  The dough will be sticky, so lightly greasing or flouring your hands might help your shaping endeavors.

Bake the logs in the center of the oven for 30 minutes, until the centers are firm and the tops are golden brown.  Remove the baking sheet from the oven, and remove the logs to cool on a wire rack for about 10 minutes.  Lower the oven temperature to 325 degrees Fahrenheit.  With a serrated knife, slice the slightly-cooled logs on the diagonal into ½-inch thick slices.  Return the slices, cut side down, to the baking sheet, then bake for an additional 25 to 30 minutes, until the slices are extremely crisp and nicely browned.

Remove biscotti slices to a wire rack to cool completely.  Biscotti can be kept in an airtight container for several days.

About the contributor:

Elizabeth Miller is a freelance writer who runs Savory Salty Sweet, a food and kitchen appreciation website. She also writes the Melting Pot column here on Indie Fixx, which appears bimonthly on Fridays. Read more about her on the contributors’ page.
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Spicy Chickpea Burgers

May 04, 2012

melting pot adventures in food

When I first lived away from home, at the tender age of 18, I was more than a little excited to start cooking on my own.  I sometimes flexed my cooking muscles while living at home with my parents, but, even then, I knew that cooking in my parents’ home was far different from cooking in my own home.

And then something curious happened.  Despite my insatiable excitement about whipping up elaborate homemade soups, made-from-scratch cakes, and vegetable-laden pasta dishes, it soon came to pass that 90% of my diet was comprised of Gardenburgers.  Apparently, working fulltime and sharing an apartment with three other people (none of whom cooked, but all of whom had no problem eating food bought and cooked by other people) meant that finding quality time to spend in the kitchen was not as easy as I had anticipated.  So, Gardenburgers it was.

And boy, did I think of a myriad of ways to use those patties.  I chopped them up and ate them with rice in a stir fry; I mixed them with scrambled egg for breakfast; I crumbled them into burritos.  I stopped short of somehow trying to turn them into a beverage, but I am sure that, had my living situation continued, such a thing would have become inevitable.  Now, due to overload in the early years, I have a difficult time even looking at Gardenburgers.  I do, however, still enjoy a nice vegetarian burger, so I decided that it was high time I created my own.

Though these burger patties are vegetarian, they bear little resemblance to the ubiquitous Gardenburger.  Pureed chickpeas give the patties a wonderfully nutty taste, and a hefty pinch (or more, depending on how spicy you’d like your burgers) of red pepper flakes adds a nice kick of spice.  I kept the other spices in the burgers on the safe side—a little garlic, a little cumin, a bit of cilantro—but I think you could find lots of other ways to spice these up.  Next time I might fold in a chopped up roasted poblano pepper, or maybe even add in some chopped, sautéed spinach for a bigger nutritional punch.  As they are, they make a wonderful base for many a meal.  You can stack them on a bun with lots of crisp veggies, or crumble one on top of a salad with a dollop of hummus on top.  They are highly adaptable, and, most importantly, highly delicious.

Spicy Chickpea Burgers

½ medium-sized yellow or red onion, coarsely chopped
3 cloves garlic, roughly chopped or smashed
1 large carrot, coarsely diced
15 ounces cooked chickpeas (drained and rinsed from a can is just fine)
2 tablespoons besan (chickpea) flour
½ teaspoon baking powder
¼ cup chopped cilantro
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon sea salt
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
juice of ½ a lemon

In the bowl of a food processor, combine onion, garlic, and carrot.  Pulse 3 or 4 times until chopped somewhat finely, then add the chickpeas, besan, baking powder, cilantro, spices, and lemon juice.  Puree until the mixture is chopped, thick, and combined.  Be careful not to puree the mixture into a paste.  It should end up looking more like cookie dough than, say, peanut butter.

Place the mixture in the refrigerator and allow to rest for at least 1 hour.

To cook burgers, heat a large skillet over medium heat.  Brush pan with oil, then scoop 1/3 of a cup of chickpea mixture at a time, form the scoop into a patty shape, and place on preheated skillet.  You should be able to cook 3 or 4 patties at a time, depending on the size of your skillet.  Cook until the bottoms of the patties are nicely browned, then brush the tops of the patty lightly with oil, then flip patties over to cook on the other side.  Cook for an additional 5-10 minutes, until the undersides are browned and the patties hold their shape when picked up.

Alternately, you can cook the patties in the oven.  Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.  Lightly brush a baking sheet with oil, then form 1/3 cup of chickpea mixture at a time into patties.  Place patties on oiled baking sheet, and bake in oven for 20 minutes.  Then, lightly brush tops of patties with oil, flip over, and return to oven to bake for an additional 10 minutes.  Patties will be done when they are dark golden brown all over.

Makes roughly 8 patties, depending on how generous your scoops are.

About the contributor:

Elizabeth Miller is a freelance writer who runs Savory Salty Sweet, a food and kitchen appreciation website. She also writes the Melting Pot column here on Indie Fixx, which appears bimonthly on Fridays. Read more about her on the contributors’ page.
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Pear and Apple Kuchen

April 20, 2012

melting pot adventures in food

A quick perusal through what I’ve been cooking these past few months leads me to believe that I have inadvertently turned winter and spring into the Seasons of Streusel.  I’ve been capping pie with a crisp streusel lid, making breads with buttery streusel toppings, and now we have this little streusel and almond-studded beauty.

“Kuchen” means “cake” in German, but I would argue that this treat is so much more than a simple cake.  With a yeasted base, a fresh fruit middle, and a crisp, lightly sweetened top layer, the sum of this kuchen’s parts is elevated past that of what one would consider a cake.  Somehow, the elements come together—crunchy and soft, sweet, yet not overly so—to create a cake that is complex without being complicated, indulgent without being grief-inducing.  You can eat it as a dessert, or as a special breakfast treat, and it magically manages to exist as both without ever leaving you feeling as though you just did something slightly wrong.

Of all the things I am loving about this cake, my favorite attribute just might lie in its ability to adapt to the seasons.  The mellow flavor of the cake base, combined with the cinnamon in the streusel, just begs to be paired with a variety of fruits.  Though this version uses apples and pears, the original recipe called for apples and blackberries (a combination that sounds absolutely fantastic).  When summers rolls around, you better believe I will be giving that version a whirl, along with an iteration that includes blueberries or raspberries, and maybe even cherries.  This is an awfully friendly cake, so I can’t imagine it not playing well with just about any fruit you try out.  As you might imagine, I can’t wait to start testing out my theory.

Pear and Apple Kuchen
Adapted from Nigella Bites, by Nigella Lawson

Cake Base
2 ¼ cups bread flour
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon rapid-rise yeast
2 large eggs
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
grated zest of ½ a lemon
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ cup lukewarm milk
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened to room temperature

Topping
1 egg beaten with a splash of cream or milk and a pinch of cinnamon
1 small tart apple
1 medium to large pear
zest of ½ a lemon
1/3 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
heaping ¼ teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons ground almonds
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold and diced into chunks
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons sliced almonds

To make the cake base, put the bread flour in a large bowl with the salt, sugar, and yeast.  In a smaller bowl, beat the eggs, then add to them the vanilla extract, lemon zest, cinnamon, and lukewarm milk.  Stir to combine.  Add the egg mixture to the bread flour mixture, and stir to make a medium-soft dough.  Work in the soft butter, then knead for 10 minutes by hand, or 5 minutes if using a stand mixture.  If the dough is having trouble reaching a stage of being smooth and spring, add more flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, as you knead.  The dough will be thoroughly kneaded when it is glossy and plump.

Cover the dough with a kitchen towel and allow it to double in size (this should take anywhere from 1 hour to an hour and a half, though you could also leave the dough in the refrigerator to rise overnight).  Punch down the dough and place it in a 9” x 13” jellyroll or baking pan.  Press the dough into the pan to cover the bottom.  The dough may take a bit of coaxing to stretch the entire way (especially if the dough is cold), but allowing it to rest for a few minutes while you are stretching it will help your efforts immensely.  When the bottom of the pan is covered with the dough, brush it with the egg and cream mixture and allow it to rest for 15 to 20 minutes while you preheat the oven and make the topping.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

Peel and chop both the apple and the pear into ¼-inch chunks.  Toss the apple and pear in a small bowl with the lemon zest.

In a medium bowl, combine the all-purpose flour, ground almonds, and cinnamon.  Stir to combine, then add the cold butter.  Using your fingertips, rub the butter into the flour until the mixture appears clumpy.  Fork in the sugars and the sliced almonds.

Spread the fruit over the rested dough, then sprinkle the streusel topping on top of the fruit.  Bake the kuchen for 15 minutes in the center of the oven, then reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees Fahrenheit and cook for an additional 20 minutes, until the dough is puffed up and golden at the edges.  The crumble should settle, but still remain somewhat soft.

Allow to cool for 5 to 10 minutes before slicing.  Serves 8 to 10.

About the contributor:

Elizabeth Miller is a freelance writer who runs Savory Salty Sweet, a food and kitchen appreciation website. She also writes the Melting Pot column here on Indie Fixx, which appears bimonthly on Fridays. Read more about her on the contributors’ page.
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Fig and Manchego Flatbread

April 06, 2012

melting pot adventures in food

One of my favorite activities (besides eating cheese) is strolling in front of a cheese counter, examining every item on display and trying to figure out if I want to go for a bold cheese (highly stinky) or a mellower cheese (not so stinky).  I know that this must sound unbearably boring to most people, but, what can I say?  I really like cheese.  So much so, in fact, that when my birthday rolled around last month, my single birthday request was to eat bread and cheese until my belly became swollen with delight.
And, lo, did I eat a massive amount of cheese.  Cheese with perfectly ripe pears, cheese with thin slices of cucumber, cheese with crisp apples, and cheese with fig preserves—all of them stacked on slices of baguette and devoured with great enthusiasm.  After the meal, when the dust had cleared and we all sat around patting our tummies and trying really hard not to think about dessert, I found myself staring at all the remaining cheese and accompaniments left on the table and thinking, “Good lord…that’s a lot of leftovers.”  For a split second, I may have panicked a little, but by the time I was able to stand up and start putting things away, the wheels of my mind had already started cranking out ideas for what to do with those leftovers.
This flatbread, the perfect combination of salty and sweet, came out as the hands down winner.  A crisp and flavorful crust, a smear of thick, sweet fig preserves, and just a light layer of savory, salty Spanish cheese make for an elegant snack.  Cut into small squares or triangles, it would make a fantastic party snack, or, if you are like me, you can cut it into large squares and eat it for lunch, paired with a glass of San Pellegrino, while you think about your next birthday dinner, and how you can work this flatbread onto the menu.
Fig and Manchego Flatbread

½ cup warm water
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon honey
1 1/3 cups bread flour
¼ teaspoon sea salt
¾ teaspoon rapid rise yeast
¼ cup fig preserves or fig butter
2 ounces thinly sliced  or shaved Manchego cheese

Add olive oil and honey to water, and whisk to combine.  In a large bowl, combine flour, salt, and yeast, then whisk together.  Slowly pour the water mixture into the flour mixture, stirring with a wooden spoon until the ingredients have come together to form a shaggy dough.  Sprinkle a tiny bit of flour over the dough and your hands, then knead the dough—still in the bowl—for 2 to 3 minutes, until the dough becomes smooth and elastic.  Form the dough into a ball, brush it with a bit of olive oil, and turn it around in the bowl to fully coat with oil.  Cover the bowl with a tightly fitted piece of plastic wrap, and allow to rise in a warm spot for 2 hours.

Preheat oven to 500 degrees Fahrenheit, and place an oven rack in the lower middle position.  Place a heavy baking sheet on the lower middle rack.  After 2 hours, when the dough is barely beginning to bubble and has more than doubled in size, turn it out onto well-floured surface.  Using your hands, gently stretch the dough until it forms an approximately 13” by 11” rectangle.  Place the dough on a large sheet of parchment paper place over a rimless baking sheet, or a piece of parchment paper placed over an overturned baking sheet.

Using the back of a spoon or an offset spatula, spread the fig preserves over the surface of the dough, leaving a ½-inch border at the edges.  Top the fig preserves with the cheese shavings.

Slide the dough, still on the parchment, onto the heated baking sheet.  Bake for 7-9 minutes, until the cheese is golden in places and the edges of the dough have browned.

Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.

About the contributor:

Elizabeth Miller is a freelance writer who runs Savory Salty Sweet, a food and kitchen appreciation website. She also writes the Melting Pot column here on Indie Fixx, which appears bimonthly on Fridays. Read more about her on the contributors’ page.
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Lemongrass Rice Patties

March 09, 2012

melting pot adventures in food

When I was growing up, there was always a container of steamed rice sitting in the refrigerator.  My mother is from India, where rice is eaten with nearly every meal, so having rice always at the ready is pretty much standard for her.  If I were to get up right now, go to my parents’ house, and open their refrigerator, I can guarantee you that I would find a batch of rice sitting in there (chances are I would also probably find a package of hot dogs in there as well, because my father is not from India).



What is often found hanging out in my own refrigerator is a collection of bits and pieces leftover from various dishes that I have been making throughout the course of a couple of weeks.  If I spend a serious week or two trying out new recipes, the refrigerator will be, at the end of the cooking spree, a veritable junkyard of end bits, stray vegetables and herbs, and tiny little containers filled with the last drops of whatever I could manage to drizzle out of various jars and cans.  It’s basically one step removed from a compost pile in there.


It’s been a few months since I shared a recipe based on the principle of cleaning out the refrigerator, and, as the recent state of my own fridge indicates, it seems I am due for another.  Coincidentally, this particular recipe started with a container of leftover steamed rice, though the direction I took it was a bit farther to the east than India.  With hearty spoonfuls of lemongrass, scallion, fresh mint, ginger, and lime, all coated with a large splash of coconut milk, the flavors of these rice patties rest comfortably in Thailand.  The sauce I threw together to accompany the patties is a bit more difficult to define geographically, but, with its subtle honey sweetness and bright, kicky hints of lime, it makes a familiar, complimentary companion.

Lemongrass Rice Patties

3 cups cold, day-old jasmine rice
¼ cup rice flour
1 tablespoon finely minced fresh lemongrass (use only the tender middle of the stalk, not the woody outer layer)
1 large finely chopped scallion
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint
1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger
¾ teaspoon finely grated or minced lime zest
¼ cup coconut milk
1 large egg
pinch of salt
vegetable oil, for frying

Honey-Lime Sauce

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
pinch of finely grated or chopped fresh lime zest
½ teaspoon honey
½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger
¾ teaspoon soy sauce

In a large bowl, mix together all of the ingredients, except for the vegetable oil.  The best way to really incorporate all of the ingredients is to mix using your bare hands.

In a large skillet set over medium high heat, heat enough vegetable oil to just cover the bottom of the pan.  When the oil is hot and just beginning to shimmer, form a small patty out of a scant ¼ cup of the rice mixture and gently place the patty in the hot oil.  Place enough patties in the pan to cook them comfortably without crowding them.  Cook one side of the patties until they are light golden in color, about 3 minutes, then carefully flip the patties over and cook until the other side has turned nicely golden.  Remove the patties from the pan and place on a layer of paper towels set on top of a wire rack.  This set up will allow the patties to drain and cool without becoming soggy.

Form and cook remaining rice mixture in the same manner, adjusting the heat of the pan as necessary to prevent the patties from cooking too rapidly and burning.

To make the sauce, whisk together all of the ingredients in a small bowl.  The sauce is great for dipping, or it can be drizzled over the cooked patties en masse.

Makes about 12 rice patties.

About the contributor:

Elizabeth Miller is a freelance writer who runs Savory Salty Sweet, a food and kitchen appreciation website. She also writes the Melting Pot column here on Indie Fixx, which appears bimonthly on Fridays. Read more about her on the contributors’ page.
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Carrots Two Ways

February 10, 2012

melting pot adventures in food

Holding rank as true workhorses in both the kitchen and the garden, it is rare to find a carrot that is not at least close to being in season.  I may be late to the party on this one, but I only recently realized that at the winter farmers market in Portland, carrots are always being offered, as is the case with the spring, summer, and autumn markets.  The more I thought about carrots, the more it became clear to me that, in addition to being a flexible, all-season vegetable, carrots are also a veritable cornucopia of cooking versatility.

It may sound surprising to hear someone wax so rapturously about the common carrot, but it’s only occasionally that one is faced with a vegetable so ready and willing to be roasted, mashed, shaved, boiled, pickled, or braised, and yet also able to be simply delicious and satisfying on its own, freshly pulled from the ground.   Carrots are a staple in my home, as I am sure is the case with many other people, and when the seasons change and we begin to set our sights past merely enjoying our carrots crunchy and raw, I begin to think of ways to continue our carrot consumption into the next season.

Roasting any vegetable will bring out the natural sweetness locked within, and carrots hold court as the pride of this tried and true cooking method.  Paired up with richly caramelized cloves of garlic and just a hint of woody and aromatic thyme, this intensely savory roasted carrot spread is an undeniable treat that is fit for both sunny picnics and cool winter evenings.


Taking the current pickling trend into consideration, it seems only natural to mention how well carrots take to brine.  A crisp carrot made vinegary and tart is a welcome snack during any time of the year, and this Indian-spiced pickle is a quick and refreshing way to dress up a garden’s bounty.  Using a cold pickling method to preserve the carrots will result in a pickle that requires being eaten at faster pace than pickles preserved in a hot brine, but I don’t imagine these pickles will be left to languish once word of their spicy, brisk sweetness gets out.  Even if you go so far as to make two batches of these pickled carrots—one batch to tell people about, one batch to hoard for yourself—I wouldn’t be too worried about the state of your pickled carrot supply.  Rest assured, there will nearly always be more carrots waiting for you and your brine.


Roasted Carrot and Garlic Spread

1 pound carrots, scrubbed, trimmed of ends, and cut into roughly 3-inch chunks
3 large cloves of garlic, unpeeled and very lightly smashed
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
¼ teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon sea salt

Preheat oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit.  On a heavy baking sheet, combine carrots, garlic, thyme, olive oil, and seasoning. Toss to coat evenly.  Roast carrots and garlic for 25 minutes, turning over garlic cloves halfway through, until both carrots and garlic are soft and deeply caramelized.  Remove from oven and allow to cool on pan for 5 minutes.
When carrots have cooled slightly, scoop them into the bowl of a food processor, pouring in as much excess olive oil and possible.  Remove garlic cloves from their papery skin, and add to the carrots.  Blend in the food processor until thick and smooth, stopping every few seconds to scrape down the sides of the bowl, about 1 minute total.

Quick Pickled Indian Carrots

½ pound carrots, peeled and tops removed
1 ½ cups white vinegar
1 ½ cups cold water
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon whole mustard seeds
½ teaspoon whole cumin seeds
1 clove garlic, peeled and smashed
5 paper-thin slices of peeled fresh ginger
4-inch long by 1-inch wide strip of fresh lemon peel, outer part only, with no white pith
4 sprigs of fresh cilantro

In a 1-quart mason jar, combine all ingredients.  Tightly screw on the lid of the jar, and shake vigorously until the salt and sugar have dissolved and all of the ingredients have become intermingled.  Place in the refrigerator and allow carrots to pickle for at least 5 hours, but preferably overnight, before eating.  Pickled carrots will keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks, and their flavor only gets better the longer they are allowed to sit in their brine.

About the contributor:

Elizabeth Miller is a freelance writer who runs Savory Salty Sweet, a food and kitchen appreciation website. She also writes the Melting Pot column here on Indie Fixx, which appears bimonthly on Fridays. Read more about her on the contributors’ page.
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