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Shoot Film: Free Photo Portfolio Sites

July 11, 2011

photography

This is the final part of Shoot Film, I’ve really enjoyed writing this series, many thanks to Jen for the opportunity to share some film love and I hope you have enjoyed reading, and have felt inspired to give film a go.

For this final post I will be exploring ways to share your beautiful photos online.

Of course there is always good old flickr, but would you like something a little more professional looking rather than a social networking site; a free, portfolio-style site to upload your favorite images to? Well firstly you will need to do one of several things to get your photographs ready to upload. Either ask for your negatives to be scanned to CD at the time of developing, or you can buy a film scanner and learn how to do it yourself. There are many to choose from, for a wide range of budgets, or you can simply scan your prints with a regular scanner.

These are my five favorite, free portfolio sites and believe me, I’ve pretty much tried everything out there! Don’t be put off by the professional photographers that use the premium versions, the free packages are a great way to show off your best pictures to friends & family, link to your blog or email signature. all require no html or design knowledge and are super-simple to set up.

1. Cargo has a great set of customizable templates and a nice, clean look. You can follow or be followed by other users, but it’s not really a social network as such. The free service gives you 12 different projects, 3 pages (great for an ‘about me’ and blog link) and 100MB storage.

Cargo
{{genevieve bjargardottir on cargo}}

2. Shownd is used by many freelance designers and photographers, and can seem a little too professional, but don’t let that put you off. It has a huge amount of free space – You can have up to 15 projects, 75 images, and you can import your flickr files easily too.

Shownd
{{isabelle bertolini on shownd}}

3. Paspartout gives you 5 projects, 35 images, and 3 pages. You can connect your facebook and twitter profiles, it has a really helpful online support and has several customizable options. (I use this site for my art portfolio here)


{{marco woyczikowski on paspartout}}

4. Although Carbonmade has the least storage of 35 images and 5 projects, it is really simple to use. It is also the least customizable options too, so all the free sites tend to look fairly similar unfortunately.


{{evita weed on carbonmade}}

5. Finally, my own favourite is Portfoliobox. The free package gives you 50 pictures, unlimited galleries, fully customizable designs and even password protected galleries if you want to keep some pictures private.


{{manuela morgia on portfoliobox}}

So that’s it! Enjoy a wonderful summer of creating some beautiful and amazing photographs, and then show them off to the world! If you do create a mini-portfolio, I’d love to see it, I’m very nosey like that. Just pop by my blog or send me an email with the link and I’ll swing by.

- Suzie Chaney runs Shooting the Breeze film photography e-workshops, blogs at Black-eyed Angel and sells her film photographs on etsy. Her column, Shoot Film, runs bimonthly on Mondays.

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Shoot Film: Black and White

June 27, 2011

photography

I’ve got a bit of an obsession at the moment, and that is developing my own black and white film. I mentioned it briefly a couple of posts ago but this time round I shall tell you how to do it yourself, it’s really not that difficult!

I love black and white photography. It makes for the most delicious light and shadow, the subject matter becomes free of distractions, plus there is something so timeless about the tradition, being the earliest form of photography. You need to think a little differently from shooting colour; pay really good attention to light and texture or pattern but also viewpoint i.e. make sure the subject is clearly defined and how it is lit. And the final good thing is you can save yourself money by learning this skill; most labs charge a fortune for b&w development.

Developing my film is probably my most favourite part of photography over all else; being in (relative) control the whole way through the process from viewfinder to the final picture really scratches as that creative, hands-on itch. It gives you a feeling that you are involved in an active, art-making process. Probably not for the wham bam thank you ma’am type of photographer, but for all of you who want to feel more connected, physically and mentally to the discipline.

photograph by Suzie Chaney

You will have to invest in the following:

  • A developing tank and spiral reel.
  • Chemicals ~ for developer and fixer I recommend Kodak D-76 and Kodak or Foma fixer. I never use stop bath, I use white vinegar, but Ilford make a good stop bath if you want it. I would recommend getting a bottle of Kodak Photo-flo for the final rinse.
  • Dark containers for storing the mixed up chemicals.
  • Measuring jugs.
  • Film squeegee tweezers.
  • a timer or stop watch.
  • Thermometer

Optional extras:

  • Film changing bag if you don’t have a pitch dark cupboard or room (my shower is light-tight)
  • A tool to open film canisters (I use a bottle opener)
  • Film clips (you can use regular pegs)

In France or Europe, you can buy all you need here and pretty much everywhere else in the world here.

So here’s how to do it.

  • Start off by making sure you have everything you need to hand. Mix up your chemicals very carefully following the instructions on the packet. Pour into your dark bottles and label. If I am using previously mixed and stored chemicals I stand the bottles in hot water for several minutes to bring them up to approx 20°C/68°F, the ideal temperature for developing. If they are freshly mixed and need cooling slightly, stand them in cold water.
  • Either in the pitch dark (if necessary seal any light gaps in your room/cupboard with black insulating tape, light leaks will fog your film and ruin it completely, so no scrimping on this part) or in a film changing bag, crack open the film canister using your film or bottle opener, and tip the film still wound on it’s spool into your hand
  • This is the hardest bit. In the complete dark or inside the bag you have to load the film from it’s spool onto the spiral reel. Cut off the film leader and slowly feed the film end onto the reel. Then by twisting the reel back and forth it should load onto the spiral reel. When you reach the end of the film, cut it away from the spool and give it one extra turn. It’s probably a good idea to practise this with an old film in the light a few times first to get the hang of it.
  • Put the loaded reel onto the spindle that is inside the developing tank, seal the tank up carefully and now you can turn the lights on.
  • You need to make sure you use your developer for the right amount of time. Either follow the guide on your developer packet or use this chart. Take the rubber lid only off the top of your tank, pour in sufficient developer, re-seal and start your timer for the appropriate time. For the first 30 secs invert the tank carefully, and tap it down a couple of times to release any air bubbles. After that, you need to agitate the tank 4 or 5 times every minute till your timer goes off, by inverting it.

  • Pour out the developer and put the tank under running water. Experience has taught me to never use developer for more than a maximum of 3 films. I usually dump it after 2 to be on the safe side. Leave the tap running for about 5 mins. If you use a stop bath maybe you could shorten this. Anyway, after the 5 mins is up I fill a jug with a 1+4 solution of white vinegar and water, pour that in and agitate for 30 secs. Pour away and rinse under running water for a minute.
  • Empty the water from the tank and pour in your fixer. You need to fix for between 5-10 minutes, depending on a) your fixer and b) how old it is. Invert/agitate exactly as you did the developer and when it is done, carefully pour it back into the bottle. Fixer should never go down the sink.
  • Rinse the tank again under running water for another 5 minutes or so. Then mix a few drops of Photo-flo with water in a jug. Pour into the tank, agitate for no more than 30 seconds. Empty the tank, open up and remove and shake the spiral. Remove your film from the spiral, and hang up in a dry, preferably dust free place using your clips or pegs. Bathrooms are good. Run the squeegee down the strip a couple of times to give you good smear and stain free negatives. I like to leave mine to hang overnight before I do anything with them.

That’s all there is to it! If you would like a free, downloadable pdf of these instructions, head on over to my blog.

{{by Michael Italia}}

- Suzie Chaney runs Shooting the Breeze film photography e-workshops, blogs at Black-eyed Angel and sells her film photographs on etsy. Her column, Shoot Film, runs bimonthly on Mondays.

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Shoot Film: Take a look at yourself

June 07, 2011

This post was supposed to go up yesterday, but I goofed, so it’s going up today. ;) – jen

photography


Ilse Bing

This week I’m going to inspire you to try an artistic staple, a tradition that stretches back over the centuries. Yes, I’m talking about self-portraits, people.

Self portraits are tough and they can make us feel vulnerable and exposed, but they are a huge challenge, often quite cathartic and certainly a learning curve and a wonderful historic discipline. Think Albrecht Dürer, Egon Schiele, Frida Kahlo, Robert Mapplethorpe or Nan Goldin just for starters.


Egon Schiele


Robert Mapplethorpe

Now think of the advantages; you know yourself better than anyone else, so who better to convey the real you? You have an instant willing subject and it is the perfect opportunity to take your time to experiment with creative techniques and improve your photographic skills and vision without badgering someone else to get involved. Me time = bliss!


Avoid by Eldad Carin

Let’s start by thinking about ideas. How do you want to portray yourself? Do you want to make use of your features, do you have anything unusual or distinguishing about your appearance that you want to feature? Perhaps you want to use props to say something about your personality, or where you are in your life or to tell a story about yourself. It’s important to try and imbue some sense of narrative or strong identity to your photograph, to convey who you are. Easy to say this (and I should take my own advice), but vanity is best left at the door here.


An Exercise in Self Portraiture by John Hill

Getting a selfie right is usually a process of trial and error, getting the perfect pose, exposure and focus. But remember, we are shooting with film, right? We need to nail this! No chance to shoot it over and over again. We just need to prepare well and take our time. The pay off will be worth it. Think about whether you wish to use b&w, which can be faulous for portraiture, a flattering and fine grain colour film such as Kodak Portra or something whacky if that’s the kind of guy you are! (Check back to my last post for film help) Be sure to use the right speed film for your light conditions.

Depending on your camera, chances are you will already have a self-timer on it. Use the smallest size aperture and therefore the widest depth of field you can get a way with, as accurate focusing will be less critical. Set your camera up with a tripod or on a stable surface such as a table or sturdy chair, get an object, a pillow, a stuffed toy or even another person and place them exactly where you will be. Set the focus and exposure, and mark the spot accurately with tape. Most old cameras will probably give you 10 seconds at best on the delay timer, so getting all the elements accurate before you fire the shutter is crucial.

If your camera has a screw fitting on the shutter release, you can pick up a long cable release usually quite cheaply secondhand. They are a flexible long length of tubing, with one end that screws into your shutter release and a trigger on the other. You have to be careful not to include the cable or trigger in your shot, but this will allow you much more time to get yourself set up before you take the picture.


Film by Ryan Jacks

So what if you don’t have a self timer, a cable release or even a tripod? Or maybe you use a polaroid or toy camera. You could try any of the following.

1. Try shooting in a mirror or another reflective surface. In most cases your camera will be included in the photograph, but you can experiment with holding it further away from your face or to one side. You could play with the idea of ‘reflected’ and use props in the mirror with you that say something about you; perhaps memorabilia, or other photographs of yourself as you were growing up ‘reflecting’ your personality. Or what about shooting yourself reflected back through the window of your favorite shop or your home or any building that says something about who you are. You could even photograph yourself reflected back in a puddle.


Testing…..by Christine Holm

2. A self-portrait doesn’t have to be of your face. What about your hands, your feet. You could aim the camera down your body from eye level. Or perhaps you could try photographing your shadow. Best done either early or late in the day when shadows are long, and choose a simple and light colored background such as a pale wall or path.


Polaroid Self Portrait by Leanne Surfleet

3. How about just turning the camera round and tripping the shutter, à la Facebook! Risky, but it can work beautifully, if you get the focus right. You may need to set the focussing ring to the focal length indicated to roughly the length of your arms. For example, 2ft and again use the smallest aperture you can get away with.


Car, Shades, Film by Lauren Skillen

Self portraits with film are a real challenge for many reasons; you can’t see yourself to know how you look until you get your pictures back. Setting up the picture is for sure more time consuming, you spend a lot of it running back and forth from your camera. Focus is difficult if you are using the self timer because you can’t see exactly what your point of focus is, plus there is always a chance you weren’t in the frame when the shutter fired! But they are a completely absorbing undertaking, a lot of fun and very rewarding to do.

So go spend some quality time with yourself and until next time, à vos argentiques, mes amis!

- Suzie Chaney runs Shooting the Breeze film photography e-workshops, blogs at Black-eyed Angel and sells her film photographs on etsy. Her column, Shoot Film, runs bimonthly on Mondays.

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Shoot Film and Get Inventive!

May 16, 2011

photography

Now we are up to the third part of my series and by now you have got yourself a spanking film camera, and you’ve spent some time practicing how to use it. This time I’m going to help you experiment with different types of film, and along the way get creative with it, use your imagination and have a some fun!

The most obvious  and popular film choice is regular, colour negative film. But black and white photography has a unique charm and many advantages. For instance, the  pictures often have a clearer and more immediate message once you take colour out of the equation, allowing the subject to shine. Light and shadow are enhanced, and with no blotchy red skin tones it is a very flattering choice for portraits. There also is the fact it is the original photographic medium and has a timeless, nostalgic appeal.  You can learn to develop your negatives yourself at home, giving you so much more creative control. If you want to learn how, I have a tutorial here.


Maryna Kochetyga

But if you want to play with colour, how about trying slide (also called positive or reversal) film? It produces transparencies or positives rather than negatives. Although it was developed in order to view the image projected onto a screen, the film can still be scanned for prints. It has higher contrast and resolution than negative film, but is a lot less forgiving exposure-wise.

A really creative thing you can do with slide film is have it cross processed. Here’s the science bit. Slide film is processed my the E6 process, negative film by C-41 process. Any decent lab will swap these processes around for you if you ask, and slide film processed as negative film yields some amazing, over saturated and intense colours. The other way round can give you slightly muddy and muted colours, but ultimately the results will be pretty random, with an large element of chance.


cross processed slide film by  annelie

Again, if you want to stick with colour film, you could try redscale film. This involves removing the film from it’s canister and reversing it before re-spooling it. You can find instructions how to do it yourself here or else or you can buy ready made redscale film here.


redscale by Aaron Shieha

There are so many other things you can try, all of these with both colour and black and white films.

1. You could take double exposures. I have instructions how to do this here on my blog. You obviously don’t have to team up with someone else, you can do this on your own.


double exposure collaboration fortyfivenorth-sixtyonewest

2. You could try ‘hacking’ 35mm film through an old instamatic or a toy 120 film camera such as a Holga. The image will be developed onto the whole area of the negative, sprocket holes and numbers included!


Hacked film with sprockets by Rachel Rebibo

3. You could try making a pinhole camera. There are many ways of doing this, here’s a great tutorial for one design or you can buy them readymade here.

4. Simplest of all for crazy and unpredictable colour casts, use expired film in your camera. The more out of date the better.


expired film Phillipe Lelièvre

5. Finally, there is the Revolog range of creative films, available here.


Photo by Demetri Parides using Revolog’s volvox film

So there are some ideas to fuel your creativity. You never know where it may all end, the only limitation is your imagination. You could even end up like Susan Burnstine and start making your own cameras!


Taken with a homemade camera Susan Burnstine

- Suzie Chaney runs Shooting the Breeze film photography e-workshops, blogs at Black-eyed Angel and sells her film photographs on etsy. Her column, Shoot Film, runs bimonthly on Mondays.

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Give Yourself a Kick Start

May 02, 2011

photography


photograph by Johan Lindberg

In the last post I gave you some advice about choosing your camera, and what to look for. This time I will be helping you to get started, throw away any reservations you may have about shooting with film and to get stuck in! (Just in case you need any more convincing, take a look at this).

Let me start off by saying one of the main criticisms of film I hear is ‘oh, film is too expensive to buy and develop, that’s why I use a digital camera.’

Well I have to disagree. A secondhand vintage SLR camera is certainly cheaper, far more robust and will probably outlive a DSLR, minimal editing needs means no expensive photoshop or similar required plus no memory cards, rechargeable battery packs…

The next main gripe is that you will waste shots. With your digital camera you can shoot as many as you wish, right? Well let me help you rethink a little. By slowing down, really thinking about your picture taking, how you will compose and frame the shot, and getting the exposure right is a wonderful and totally absorbing art-making process. A discipline once learnt you can also take with you when you use a digital camera, and one that get easier the more you practise.

So now you want to go out and take some photographs. How do you either give yourself a kick start or break yourself out of your photographic rut?

Try some of these suggestions, depending on whether you are a film newbie or a re-visitor to this wonderful filmy world, but in all cases no flash or auto exposures allowed!

  • This is something I keep banging on about on my Shooting The Breeze e-workshops, and that is to stop looking for a reason or subject to take photos of, but just get out there and do it! Look at William Eggleston, he saw the beauty in the mundane and everyday, shooting everything from kid’s bikes and roadsigns to dogs. The whole world can be in your own backyard.


William Eggleston

  • Try shooting the same thing, landmark or object at different times of day and different weather conditions.
  • Step out of your comfort zone; If you usually take posed portraits, go do some street photography, stealthily snapping strangers. If you like a still life, take some action shots. If you take macros, try shooting architecture or if you shoot with a shallow depth of field (ahem, that’s me) try a smaller aperture. If your shots are always urban, get out in the countryside….see where I’m going with this?
  • Photograph yourself. Self timer, in the mirror, whatever. When you’ve had enough, go photograph your friends and family.


Self-portrait by Jay Kullman

  • Get a little notebook and jot down your apertures, shutter speeds and any other useful notes to refer back to.
  • Start a blog, join flickr, share what you have taken and connect with others, look at other photographers’ work. FIrstly it forces you to have to take pictures and keep learning and secondly it’s fun!
  • Create photo assignments for yourself, or shoot a project. For example, document a journey; take a sequence of related images that tell a story; or perhaps just a series of purple flowers, whatever grabs you
  • Edit nothing.
  • Practise, practise, practise. And then practise some more. Concern yourself with your ideas and not your gear. Don’t worry whether your any good or not, just keep on doing it. What’s good to some people is rubbish to someone else; art is subjective so just please yourself and ignore trends.

and above all remember this:

A technically perfect photograph can be the world’s most boring picture.

Andreas Feininger

Happy shooting!

- Suzie Chaney runs Shooting the Breeze film photography e-workshops, blogs at Black-eyed Angel and sells her film photographs on etsy. Her column, Shoot Film, runs bimonthly on Mondays.

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Shoot Film: a photographic guide new guest column

April 18, 2011

Suzie Chaney is debuting her new guest column today called Shoot Film: a photographic guide. Suzie only shoots with film cameras and is on a bit of a mission to get everyone into it, so she will be sharing some inspiration as well as tips and tricks.  Suzie’s columns will appear bimonthly on Mondays.

In addition to guest blogging at Indie Fixx, Suzie runs Shooting the Breeze film photography e-workshops, blogs at Black-eyed Angel and sells her film photographs on etsy as well. – xoxo, jen

photography

Hi I’m Suzie, a photographer and artist and I moved to the southwest of France 6 years ago. I only shoot film. For me, nothing beats it! It takes more time, forces you to slow down, take care to set up your shot. I think the look of the photograph and the way the light is captured is so beautiful, digital photography just can’t compare! Through this series, I will help you to explore the possibilities and potential of film photography.

In this very first post, I will give you some ideas if you are thinking about trying film photography. Firstly, you need to think about what sort of photographic style you like, do you like lo-fi and spontaneous or would you rather take a more sophisticated type of photograph?

If you like medium format, then the two options readily available are cameras that take 120 film and Polaroid cameras. When it comes to 120 film, the sky’s the limit. At one end there are lo-fi, toy cameras such as a Holga or Diana up to the big, budget-busting beauties such as a Contax 645….But let’s not go there!


photo taken using Contax 645 by Ozzy Garcia

I have a very cute little Diana Deluxe with a plastic lens that takes 120 film, I also have a little Kodak Cresta 3 that takes 120 film, a little more sophisticated than the Diana. These cameras are typical of the style of photography called lomography, a kind of casual and unpredictable type of photography. Lots of light leaks, vignetting (the dark outer edges of the image) over-saturated colours and off-kilter focusing. Hugely popular, lomo-style cameras are easily available both secondhand and brand new. Holga and Diana cameras are available here in both 120 and 35mm format.

Polaroids are quite a bit different as they take instant film. Increasingly popular choice for photographers who love the instantaneous and quite blurred and muted pictures these cameras take, their popularity is growing in leaps and bounds since the film became readily available again.


polaroid photo by Casey Holford

Other 120 options are vintage TLR cameras, box cameras and folding cameras, all easily found on eBay or elsewhere, and a good option for shooting medium format without breaking the bank.

Next up are cameras that use 35mm film, and this is what I mostly use. Whereas 120 film gives you a larger negative, finer grain and an ability to enlarge photos to enormous sizes, I love the proportions of 35mm, and the flexibility to shoot horizontally to create a feeling of space or vertically to add dynamism. I love the little compact cameras that pop into your coat pocket like the Olympus Trip, Smena Symbol or my fave, Yashica ME.

If you like street photography, and you want a casual approach but with a much better quality image, then the rangefinder type of camera would be a great choice. Really easy to focus, wide-angle lenses and a quiet shutter with an ability to shoot in often quite low light situations. But generally you cannot focus in closer than 3ft(1m) and usually the lens is not interchangeable. Ooooh, those vintage rangefinder cameras are such eye candy!


photo by Andrew James

Which brings us on to SLR cameras. These give you greater control over exposures, depth of field and interchangeable lenses. Beautiful, robust, simple. I have been lucky enough to collect quite a few, all with different characters and qualities.

So, if after reading this you are thinking, “hmm maybe I’ll get myself a film camera, give it a go” here’s what I do when I see a handsome looking camera tucked on a shelf at the brocante or lounging on a flea market table before I decide to go for it or walk away. And I do like a bargain!

Before buying a used or vintage film camera:

1. Check the camera all over for surface dings and dents, not necessarily a bad thing. My Spotmatic has a magnificent dent in the top of the prism that doesn’t effect it at all. But my old Olympus had such a big dent on the side of the lens I couldn’t fit a lens cap or filter on it.

2. Find the battery compartment, take out a coin and unscrew it. Check for corrosion. A little can be cleaned up with white vinegar or alcohol but badly corroded compartment is a real headache as the battery will probably not work and bang goes your light meter and in some cases, shutter speeds too.

3. Open up the camera back, check the seals around the edges of the door. Even if they are perished, it’s a straightforward enough d-i-y job. You can get replacement seal kits cheaply from ebay.

4. Does the shutter fire ok? Wind on? If the shutter is a cloth type, check it as you wind on for damage. Could be a costly repair.

5. If the lens is unremoveable (some rangefinders and compacts for example) set shutter speed to bulb (B), fire shutter and keep it open while you hold the camera up to the light to check the lens for scratches, fungus etc. An unremoveable lens that’s damaged; put it down, walk away.

6. Close the camera and unscrew lens if possible. Hold lens to the light and check it is clean and clear, no scratches or fungus. If all else but the lens is well and the price is good, you could consider buying a new lens from eBay.

7. With the lens still off, look into the camera body at the mirror. Check it flips freely when you trip the shutter, and check the mirror pad. (If it is sticky or perished, it is again a do-able d-i-y job.)

8. Finally screw lens back on and check the focusing and aperture rings on the lens move smoothly.


photo by hana**

Voilà! But beware. You too could end up with Gear Aquisition Syndrome and it’s sadly incurable!

See you next time with some shooting tips and tricks.

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